With looping, textural stitches that appear handsewn, chain stitch embroidery is an ideal complement to the retro styles that have become so popular in recent years.

Interest in the technique has been high, says Michael Monfared, founder of DTLA Print, adding that his Los Angeles-based apparel decoration shop received the most orders for chain stitch in Q4 of last year.

DTLA Print has seen high interest in chain stitch embroidery, particularly in the last four months of 2024.

“It really does stand out a lot more,” Monfared says. “At times, people have asked us, ‘Is this hand stitched?’ We have to say no, it’s not hand stitched, it’s using chain stitch.”

Embroidery is a tried-and-true decoration technique in promotional apparel – particularly for left-chest logos on polos. About two-thirds of print shops offer embroidery in-house, with another 23% outsourcing the technique, according to State of Decorated Apparel (SODA) research from PRINTING United Alliance, ASI’s strategic content partner. (Full SODA reports can be downloaded by Alliance members.)

While most machine embroidery uses satin stitches for a smooth, flat appearance, chain stitch uses a looping stitch mimicking the links on a chain. The style adds a vintage element to a design because it easily forms curved lines that resemble drawing with thread – one reason apparel decorators say it’s so popular right now.

Apparel Graphics, based in Oakdale, CA, “adjusts stitch length, thread thickness and tension to evoke [the] hand-crafted feel” of chain stitch, according to a January blog post about the technique.

Apparel Graphics adjusts stitch length, thread thickness and machine tension to create looping chain stitch designs on apparel and accessories.

Owner Paul Riva says he started to see the technique pick up in popularity around 2022 and doesn’t see it simmering down anytime soon.

“Chain stitch embroidery can totally level up promotional gear. That raised, loopy texture is classic,” Riva says. “Throw some script text using our chain stitch technique on a canvas hat – it’s got that vintage, handmade vibe, and people love it. It’s durable too, no matter how much wear it gets.”

Counselor Top 40 supplier Cap America (asi/43792) started offering chain stitch designs about a month ago. Carter Newman, director of product development, says he noticed demand for chain stitch in custom orders pick up about six months to a year ago.

“We’re always trying to diversify our decoration techniques in terms of what we offer to our customers,” he says. “From a development and design standpoint, we’re seeing a lot of retro and vintage looks becoming more popular.”

Chain stitch adds a retro feel to this trucker cap (i3038) from Cap America (asi/43792).

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Heightened interest in chain stitch embroidery comes amid a larger shift toward vintage clothing in recent years, especially among younger generations. Newman says he’s noticed retro and vintage looks gain more traction in retail as fashion trends like rope hats, corduroy and baggier clothing gain popularity. Other decoration techniques with a retro feel – like vintage distressed screen prints and the chenille patches commonly added to varsity jackets – have also grown more popular as a way to capitalize on the demand for nostalgic designs, according to Riva.

Secondhand apparel sales increased by about 11% between 2022 and 2023 and are projected to continue increasing each year at that rate until 2028, according to statistics compiled by Capital One. In three years, it’s estimated that the U.S. secondhand market will be worth $73 billion.

Many DTLA Print orders with chain stitch embroidery are for repurposed vintage clothing because the style works especially well with cursive fonts like the ones found on old baseball hats or varsity jackets, Monfared says. Upcycling – where existing products are repurposed or transformed into something of greater value – is an increasingly popular way to cut down on waste and increase sustainability in the promotional products industry.

“More and more with the repurposing of vintage apparel, I do see [chain stitch demand] increasing,” he says. “It can really be used for more artistic lines and either for that retro aesthetic look, for that rope-like dimensional appearance that really sets it apart from standard everyday embroidery.”

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